A Legend Reborn in Midnight Blue
There are trains, and then there is the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. At platforms like Venice’s Santa Lucia, Paris’s Gare de l’Est, and London Victoria, its presence is striking. The carriages, deep midnight blue with gold lettering and brass fittings, glow warmly from within. Passengers and onlookers pause, cameras appear, and even seasoned travelers slow their steps, captivated.
This train is more than transport; it is a rolling monument to the golden age of travel, a living museum where history surrounds you—touched, sat upon, slept in, and dined within as Europe’s landscapes unfold outside. It is one of the world’s most coveted and romantic travel experiences.
Known as the VSOE, the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is the authentic legend of the Orient Express: not a replica but genuine carriages built in the 1920s and 1930s, restored beyond their original splendor. Its 16 carriages, crafted by Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits between 1926 and 1949, embody the height of rail luxury. Boarding is stepping into the past, still vibrant and magnificent.
The Man Who Dared to Dream: James Sherwood
The VSOE’s story begins with bold vision. In 1977, American entrepreneur James B. Sherwood, founder of Sea Containers and owner of Venice’s Hotel Cipriani, bought two original first-class carriages at a Sotheby’s auction in Monte Carlo. Most thought luxury rail travel was dead in the jet age, dismissing his plan as eccentric. Sherwood saw a hunger for authentic, crafted beauty and seized the chance.
He tracked down lost carriages scattered across Europe, some abandoned or repurposed, and spent years restoring them. Over six years, he found 25 more cars, assembling the train known today. Sherwood invested $16 million in 35 carriages, undertaking a meticulous restoration with artisans like marquetry specialist Bob Dunn and Lalique glassmakers, recreating interiors with original cutlery, china, and fabrics.
On May 25, 1982, the first London–Venice journey was made. The VSOE had arrived, and the world was ready. Sherwood later reflected, “People thought I was crazy, but now the train is fully booked every year, in better condition than ever. Concorde has come and gone, but the Orient-Express remains.”
Art Deco: The Aesthetic Soul of the Train
Boarding the VSOE is entering one of the finest Art Deco examples worldwide. This bold, elegant design movement from the 1920s to 1940s found perfect expression in luxury train carriages, especially the Orient Express.
The 17 carriages showcase work by renowned Art Deco designers like René Prou and René Lalique. Lalique’s iconic “tulip lamp” and frosted glass panels in the Côte d’Azur dining car transform dining into an intimate decorative art experience. Prou’s lacquer work and intricate marquetry exemplify French craftsmanship.
Each dining car—Etoile du Nord, Cote d’Azur, and L’Oriental—has a unique character, color palette, and theme. The marquetry on sleeping cars captivates with exotic hardwood patterns and vintage details like pocket watch hooks and brass candle holders, connecting passengers to a bygone era. The polished woods and antique fixtures embody the elegance of the Golden Age.
Carriages With Their Own Extraordinary Histories
No two VSOE carriages are identical, each with its own remarkable story displayed on plaques. Sleeping Car 3309 was trapped in a 1929 snowdrift, inspiring Agatha Christie’s Murder on the Orient Express. Sleeping Car 3425 carried King Carol of Romania and his mistress fleeing in 1940. Sleeping Car 3544 served from luxury travel to wartime brothel, reflecting the war’s upheaval.
Bar Car 3674, the social heart, hosted legends like Elizabeth Taylor and Humphrey Bogart. With its piano and champagne, it remains a cherished space to spend evenings as the train glides through night.
The Accommodation: Three Ways to Travel in Splendour
The VSOE offers three cabin types, each with unique character.
Historic Cabins: Restored 1920s-30s compartments that transform from sitting rooms by day to cozy sleeping spaces by night. Heated by original coal radiators, bathrooms are shared, with robes and slippers provided.
New Suites: Introduced in 2023, these eight suites blend Art Deco spirit with modern comfort, featuring private marble bathrooms and flexible beds. Inspired by landscapes like lakes and forests, they offer elegant marquetry and champagne tables.
Grand Suites: The pinnacle, six lavish suites designed by Wimberly Interiors, each inspired by a European city on the route—Paris, Venice, Istanbul, and more. Rich fabrics, hand-beaded details, Murano glass, and Moorish fretwork create unique atmospheres. Amenities include Lalique toiletries and embroidered dressing gowns. Prices reflect exclusivity, reaching up to £61,200 for six-day journeys.
L’Observatoire: Art as Accommodation
A recent innovation is L’Observatoire, a carriage transformed into a contemporary art space by artist JR. Using century-old techniques, JR preserved the train’s feel while adding hidden details and secret messages. With a bedroom, library, and lounge under circular skylights, it debuted in 2025 and is hailed as a unique private travel environment.
Dining in Motion: A Gastronomic Journey
Dining aboard rivals Europe’s finest restaurants. Chef Jean Imbert, appointed to lead the culinary program, blends the train’s heritage with fresh, seasonal French cuisine. The menus honor history while evolving with elegance.
Evening meals start with four courses paired with wines, featuring dishes like fillet of beef or lobster vol-au-vent, followed by cheese and petit fours. Breakfast offers fresh pastries and coffee, and lunch is a leisurely three-course meal.
Annually, thousands of bottles of Champagne and wine, tons of lobster, and kilograms of caviar are consumed onboard—proof of the train’s gastronomic reputation.
The Bar Car: Heart and Soul of the Journey
Bar Car 3674 captures the train’s spirit, where live piano music, champagne, and conversation flow. This shared space fosters connection and intimacy as the landscape slips by in darkness. It remains one of the world’s finest evening venues.
Maintenance and Craft: Keeping the Legend Alive
Authenticity extends beyond journeys. Each winter, carriages undergo detailed inspections and restoration in French or Italian workshops. Marquetry, Lalique glass, brass fittings, coal-fired heaters, upholstery, and mechanical parts are carefully maintained to meet modern safety standards.
Upgrades include new bogies for higher speeds and air conditioning since 2017, ensuring comfort without compromising heritage. The train today is in finer condition than ever.
The Routes: Europe at Its Most Beautiful
Operating March to November, the VSOE covers iconic European routes. The classic London to Venice journey crosses France, Switzerland, and the Alps, while the Paris to Istanbul route retraces the famous Orient Express path through Vienna, Budapest, and the Balkans.
New routes include Paris to Portofino, Brussels and Amsterdam departures, festive Central Europe journeys, and special luxury brand collaborations. The train currently serves 15 destinations, revealing Europe’s grandeur.
The Dress Code and the Ritual of the Journey
A hallmark of the VSOE is its elegant dress code for dinner cocktail or evening wear. This tradition, embraced by most passengers, enhances the dining atmosphere, honoring the train, fellow travelers, and the occasion itself.
The ritual of preparing for dinner and stepping into the Art Deco dining cars elevates the experience, creating a rare sense of ceremony in travel. Passengers cherish this rediscovery of occasion and presence amid today’s casual world.
The VSOE and Culture: Art, Literature, and Film
The VSOE is a cultural icon, preserving Art Deco design and inspiring artists, writers, and filmmakers. Agatha Christie’s connection via Sleeping Car 3309 lends literary fame, with adaptations keeping the legend alive.
The addition of JR’s L’Observatoire continues the train’s artistic legacy, blending tradition and contemporary creativity, proving its craft and beauty remain vital.
The VS*end
Originally licensed from SNCF and expanded globally by Sherwood’s company later renamed Belmond, the VSOE is part of a portfolio including the Hotel Cipriani and the Royal Scotsman train. Belmond’s stewardship balances innovation with authenticity, adding Grand Suites, new menus, and art projects while maintaining the train’s heritage.
Annual maintenance is rigorous, reflecting both commercial success—virtually every journey sells out—and cultural commitment to preserving this irreplaceable treasure.
What It Feels Like: Passengers on the VSOE
Travelers praise not just luxury but the unique atmosphere of the VSOE: time slows, the landscape becomes vivid, and service is personal and attentive. The white-gloved staff in 1930s-style uniforms contribute to a welcoming, non-transactional experience that feels deeply special.
Passengers treasure the opportunity to be fully present, witnessing the Alps at dusk, the Danube at dawn, and the Venetian lagoon’s first light—moments available only to those who travel slowly.
The Future of the VSOE: Slow Luxury in a Fast World
The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express thrives by offering rare singularity in a commodified travel world. Fully booked year after year, it expands with new routes and cabins while preserving its core authenticity.
Commissioned artists and chefs bring fresh energy, proving that values of beauty, craftsmanship, warm service, and meaningful journeying are timeless and deeply human needs that endure.
The midnight blue train waits at the platform. Golden
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